Returning to Tromsø, the Arctic city where I grew up, always evokes a mix of nostalgia and surprise. What was once a quiet, isolated town at 69 degrees north—known for its polar nights, frigid temperatures, and quiet streets—has morphed into a bustling winter destination. With its booming tourism, modern amenities, and surprising changes, Tromsø is no longer the place I remember.
A New Face for Tromsø
Tromsø’s charm has always been its remoteness. Growing up here, I often wished for something different—something less cold, less still. The polar nights stretched on forever, and the idea of traveling anywhere felt like a distant dream. But now, when I return, I find myself in a city that feels both familiar and foreign.
Gone are the small, independent shops I once frequented. In their place, souvenir stores sell reindeer dolls, stuffed animals, and troll figurines. The city’s once solitary streets are now filled with the sounds of tourists and the presence of global brands like McDonald’s and Hard Rock Cafe. It seems as if Tromsø has become part of the global tourism circuit—something I could have never imagined when I lived here.
Tourism Booms and the Changing Landscape
Tromsø’s allure as a gateway to the Arctic has skyrocketed in recent years, as more tourists seek to experience the northern lights, go whale watching, or try dog sledding. What was once an occasional stop for cruise ships and adventure seekers has transformed into a year-round destination. The airport is busier than ever, with over 550,000 international passengers expected in 2024 and more than 250,000 additional visitors anticipated in 2025.
The city’s expansion is struggling to keep pace with this surge in tourism. While new flights from London and other European cities have made Tromsø more accessible, the infrastructure is struggling to support the influx of visitors. Despite this, the local economy is benefiting from the increase in tourism, with many new businesses catering to the seasonal demand.
Changes on the Streets and in the Air
The familiar winter conditions that once shaped my daily life have changed too. Tromsø’s icy streets, once treacherous and unforgiving, are now heated thanks to underground hydronic loops designed to prevent ice from forming. Walking on them, once a test of endurance, is now a much safer and more comfortable experience.
Yet, the demands of Tromsø’s harsh climate are still present. Despite the warmer streets, the snow-covered roads remain a challenge, particularly for visitors unfamiliar with the conditions. Many end up veering off course, driving onto ski slopes or into people’s gardens. Still, this practicality-first approach is part of what makes the city so uniquely Tromsø.
The Northern Lights: A Changing Wonder
Of course, the main draw of Tromsø is the northern lights—the stunning Aurora Borealis. I grew up watching the lights shimmer across the sky, their beauty often stopping me in my tracks as I walked between friends’ houses. But now, it’s harder to catch a glimpse of the northern lights from the city itself. Light pollution from new buildings, streetlights, and Christmas decorations has dimmed the once-brilliant spectacle. To see the auroras in all their glory, you now need to venture into the surrounding rural areas, away from the glow of the city.
A City Transformed
What strikes me most about Tromsø today is how far it has come in terms of accessibility and tourism. The city is no longer the quiet, isolated outpost I once knew—it is now a hub for travellers eager to experience the Arctic. Yet, as it grows, the essence of Tromsø that I once cherished—the stillness, the harsh beauty, the sense of defiance against nature—seems to be slipping away.
Leaving Tromsø to return to London, I’m struck by the stark contrast between the quiet, frozen landscape I’ve left behind and the bright lights of the city that now feels like a distant echo of my home. Tromsø will always be my winter wonderland, but it’s no longer the place I remember.
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