For anyone fortunate enough to witness the Northern Lights, the experience is nothing short of magical. But the phenomenon, unpredictable and temperamental by nature, makes any sighting a rare treasure. So when the shimmering Aurora finally graced the sky, I was taken by surprise—while savoring reindeer tartare and sipping a negroni in the heart of Finland’s Lapland.
The Northern Lights, known locally as revontuli or “firefox,” are steeped in myth. According to one legend, the lights are the result of a fox sprinting across the snowy wilderness, its tail scattering sparks into the sky. In this region, one of Europe’s last great wildernesses, the legends feel palpable.
Lapland, Finland’s northernmost and largest region, is a world of contrasts. In winter, the land is cold, dark, and seemingly inhospitable, yet beneath its frosty exterior lies a welcoming, unspoiled landscape brimming with natural wonders. Despite having lived in the Nordics for years, this was my first real attempt to see the Northern Lights. With the sun nearing the peak of its 11-year solar cycle, I was optimistic about the chances of a spectacular show.
The journey began with a flight to Ivalo Airport, Europe’s northernmost, where the excitement was palpable as passengers eagerly peered out the windows, hoping for a glimpse of the magical lights. What struck me first upon arrival was the absence of artificial light and noise—a stark contrast to the bustling cities I’m used to. The endless forests, moonlit lakes, and the vast dark skies hinted at the uniqueness of this place.
Our guide, Jerome, wasn’t overly optimistic about our chances of seeing the Aurora that evening, but we pressed on with our plans, visiting the newly named European Museum of the Year 2024—the Siida Sámi Museum. The museum provided an invaluable look into the region’s indigenous Sámi cultures, offering a deeper understanding of the people whose lives are intricately linked to these wild landscapes. The exhibit These Lands Are Our Children was particularly moving, though I couldn’t help but notice the absence of the more painful chapters of Sámi history, including the Finnish state’s past treatment of its indigenous people.
After the museum, we wandered along the serene shores of Lake Inari, the third-largest lake in Finland, where the quiet beauty of the surroundings was overwhelming. At the water’s edge, the Sámi Parliament stands as a symbol of both cultural pride and the ongoing struggle for self-determination in Finland.
Later, we ventured to a remote river where the crisp autumn air offered a refreshing contrast to the warmth of an open fire. After crossing a small suspension bridge over the rushing Jäniskoski rapids, which never freeze even in the depths of winter, we prepared a simple yet satisfying lunch of creamy trout soup, cooked over the flames. The pure water of the river, so pristine that we filled our bottles directly from it, gave the meal a uniquely Finnish flavor.
While Finnish cuisine may not have historically been known for its diversity, the culinary scene in Lapland is evolving. At Restaurant Aanar, located along the River Juutua, I had the opportunity to sample a tasting menu that featured delightful reindeer vorschmack croquettes paired with Finnish blueberry wine and fresh fish from Lake Inari. The meal was a testament to the region’s growing gastronomic reputation.
But the true highlight awaited us after dinner. We traveled to an ancient pine forest, where the real hunt for the Northern Lights began. As we trekked under the guidance of the moon and North Star, the biting cold seemed to heighten the anticipation. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity of waiting, the clouds parted, and the Aurora began to dance across the night sky.
The spectacle was nothing short of mesmerizing. The vibrant red hues of the lights, unique to this far northern region, were a sight I will never forget. For a moment, time seemed to stand still. And while the journey would have been worthwhile even without the Aurora, witnessing such a rare and beautiful display made it all the more special.
Lapland, Finland’s northern wilderness, has a way of captivating the soul. Whether or not you catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, the magic of this place lingers long after you leave.
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