When I first drove through Normandy on a familiar route, the weather turned unexpectedly — thunderclaps and sideways rain greeted us. My husband, Andrew, and I, along with our two young sons, ages 2 and 5, found ourselves waiting at a rest stop while we reminisced about our last trip to this part of France, taken before the children were born. Back then, we had a rented Morgan convertible, cherries on the center console, and the wind in our hair. This time, we were re-creating that journey, but with two little ones in tow.
Our first stop was Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé in the Loire Valley, a place straight out of a fairy tale. The 18th-century mansion, nestled within 80 acres of gardens, offered a glimpse of the beauty that awaited us. But this wasn’t just a trip down memory lane; it was an entirely new experience, shaped by the energy and curiosity of our children. The mornings were spent at an outdoor table, enjoying poached eggs and salt-crusted potatoes, while the boys explored the mazelike box hedges, on the lookout for tiny frogs.
The grand circular swimming pool, surrounded by lush lawns and striped umbrellas, soon became their main focus. As soon as they discovered the foam noodles and inflatable tubes, most of my grand plans for cultural outings were quickly replaced by cannonballs and laughter. What had once been a peaceful retreat became a playground — 15% culture, 85% fun.
The next stop, Domaine des Etangs Auberge in the Charente countryside, proved no different. This fairy-tale castle, with its wood-beamed game room, trampolines, zip line, and lakeside beach, became a haven for our boys. The experience felt like an upscale summer camp — marshmallow roasting included. Though we did make time for sightseeing in places like Crestet and Séguret, and visited lavender fields at Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, the focus remained on simpler joys: playing checkers at the hotel and enjoying room service croque monsieurs.
By the time we reached our second-to-last stop — Maison Dubreuil near Bordeaux — it was clear that this journey had taken on a different form. This newly renovated farmhouse was the only destination not originally planned, but it turned out to be the highlight. The surrounding landscape, dotted with vineyards, was stunning, and we spent our days cycling through the hills, enjoying pop-up markets, and discovering the region’s charm at a slower pace.
The final leg of our journey saw us appreciating the simple beauty of the landscape. We climbed the bell tower of the Monolithic church in Saint-Émilion, then explored the subterranean nave and catacombs. The boys marveled at watching truffles being made at the local chocolaterie, and we cycled to dinners in nearby Branne. By this point, the trip had become less about ticking off must-see spots and more about the experience of traveling together as a family.
In the end, rather than simply showing our kids new places, we embraced the essence of travel itself — the joy of being present in a new place, together, and seeing it all through fresh eyes.
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