The Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail, a 191 km (119-mile) transnational trek, offers an unparalleled adventure through some of Europe’s most untouched and rugged landscapes. Crossing the borders of Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro, the trail allows hikers to experience the raw beauty of the Accursed Mountains, a region that was once a no-go zone due to political instability but is now welcoming increasing numbers of outdoor adventurers.
An Introduction to the Trail
The trail was launched in 2012 by a German development organization, aiming to boost tourism in this remote corner of southeast Europe. The trek is known for its challenging terrain and spectacular scenery, with hikers passing through dense forests, alpine meadows, and past crystal-clear lakes. The trail’s remote nature makes it a perfect escape for those seeking both adventure and solitude, far from the crowds of Europe’s more popular tourist destinations.
My Journey on the Trail
I embarked on this epic adventure with my friend Cristina, who was a first-time multi-day hiker. We started our journey in Albania’s capital, Tirana, traveling by bus to Shkodër and then taking a minivan to Theth, a picturesque village that serves as a popular starting point for the trek. With a budget of just USD 40 per person per day, our trip was remarkably affordable.
The Challenge of Hiking
The first day of hiking was a test of endurance, as the steep and challenging Theth-Valbona route pushed us to our limits in sweltering heat. However, the effort was worth it. The reward? A stunning view from the Valbona Pass and a refreshing dip in the pristine rivers and lakes that punctuate the trail. As we continued, the landscape changed daily—from dense forests to fields of cabbages, from peaceful alpine lakes to historic military tracks lined with sheep.
Borderless Travel Across Three Countries
One of the most remarkable features of the Peaks of the Balkans trail is the lack of visible borders between countries. In a region once embroiled in conflict, today there is a rare sense of tranquility as we wandered across country lines with little fanfare. The trail passed seamlessly from Albania to Kosovo to Montenegro, offering hikers the chance to explore landscapes that have seen little development.
Staying in Traditional Accommodations
Accommodations along the trail are simple yet comfortable. We stayed in traditional A-frame cabins, known locally as kulla, and rustic guesthouses that offered hearty meals of local specialties. One of the most memorable stays was at Cabin on a Rock, a guesthouse built by architect Sali Shoshi in the remote wilderness of Kosovo. The off-grid, eco-friendly cabin was surrounded by stunning mountain scenery and was a welcome retreat after a long day of hiking. We were treated to a lavish meal of spiced chicken, bread, and sheep’s milk, all delivered by a local shepherd, further enhancing the authentic experience.
The Region’s Cultural Significance
This remote area is not just a geographical marvel but also a cultural one. According to Sali Shoshi, the region’s landscape remains untouched, and its ancient highland traditions are still very much alive. The hospitality of the locals was extraordinary—one hostess even tried to refuse payment when we were short on cash. Such acts of kindness reflect the region’s solidarity, born from the hardships of the Kosovo War in the late 1990s.
Economic and Tourism Growth
The trail has become a vital economic lifeline for local communities, transforming a once poverty-stricken region into a tourism hub. Tourism has brought jobs and opportunities, and the development of guesthouses and other services has helped locals rebuild their lives with pride and independence. Virtyt Gacaferri, co-founder of Balkan Natural Adventure, a company that provides tours along the trail, notes that tourists now bring much-needed money into the region, benefiting local businesses.
Post-Hike Relaxation in Montenegro
After a particularly grueling final day of hiking, we arrived in Montenegro’s picturesque lakeside town of Plav. Here, we treated ourselves to a peaceful retreat in a stilt cabin overlooking the lake. Afterward, we took a road trip through Montenegro, visiting Durmitor National Park, where we hiked the famous Bobotov Kuk peak and stayed in a geodesic dome near Podgorica. The beauty of Montenegro, with its lunar landscapes and coastal charm, provided the perfect end to our adventure.
Planning Your Own Trek
The Peaks of the Balkans trail is best walked between June and October, when the weather is favorable for hiking. Border permits are essential and can be obtained through Balkan Natural Adventure, which offers both self-guided and guided tours. Whether you’re camping or staying in guesthouses, the trail offers a variety of options for different types of adventurers.
With Montenegro poised to join the European Union and tourism steadily increasing, it’s likely that the Peaks of the Balkans will soon be more widely known. However, for now, it remains a hidden gem—an opportunity to experience an untamed and authentic side of Europe.
For more details and to plan your hike, visit the official Facebook page dedicated to the trail.
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