For those seeking a captivating blend of history, culture, and culinary delights, Cádiz on Spain’s Atlantic coast offers a perfect winter weekend escape. As Western Europe’s oldest city, founded by the Phoenicians around 1100 BC, Cádiz’s narrow cobbled streets and ancient architecture invite travelers to step back in time while enjoying a modern, laid-back atmosphere.
Arriving in the cool winter air, the warmth of Cádiz’s welcoming charm quickly envelops me as I wander through the old fishing quarter of La Viña. Here, the palm-lined Calle Virgen de la Palma leads me to Casa Manteca (Calle Corralon de los Carros 1), a local favorite serving mouthwatering Iberian ham, roasted pork belly, and air-dried tuna, all for a mere handful of euros. Cash is still king in the city’s casual eateries, offering authentic Andalusian flavors at affordable prices.
For a unique after-dinner experience, I head to La Manzanilla (Calle Feduchy 19), a sherry bar that celebrates Cádiz’s place within Spain’s “Sherry Triangle” alongside Jerez, El Puerto de Santa Maria, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The knowledgeable barkeep, Pepe, introduces me to lesser-known varieties of sherry like madura and pasada, while I sip and listen to the hum of the city.
Cádiz’s history is woven into every corner. Its stunning facades, built from local oyster stone, reflect its maritime legacy, once a bustling hub for trade between Europe, Africa, and the Americas. The city’s 120 towering vantage points—called torres—serve as silent witnesses to the bustling mercantile activity that once defined the city. These towers, built atop grand merchant homes, offered strategic views of ships arriving from distant shores.
The city’s historical richness extends beyond the architecture. In addition to its Roman theatre, dating back to the 1st century AD, Cádiz is home to Phoenician docks, where ancient traders once unloaded their goods. The imposing neoclassical cathedral dominates the skyline, while nearby streets are peppered with cannons from the Napoleonic Wars, repurposed as quirky street corner protectors.
A walk along the seafront Campo del Sur offers glimpses of the city’s vibrant colors, reminiscent of Havana—so much so that it doubled as a stand-in for Cuba in the Bond film Die Another Day. The view is iconic, with the sparkling ocean stretching beyond the historic forts of La Caleta beach, where colorful boats bob in the calm waters. For a quieter escape, I retreat to Parque Genovés, a lush garden shaded by banyan trees, where the roots sprawl like ancient tentacles over ornate tiled fountains.
Cádiz is also a city of rich culinary and cultural traditions. At the bustling Plaza de la Libertad market, I sample local dishes like cazón en adobo (fried dogfish) and tortilla de camarones (shrimp fritters), before settling into cozy eateries like Rick Stein’s favorite, Tabernita el Tio de la Tiza, where grilled cuttlefish and tuna take center stage. For a deeper dive into Andalusian culture, I visit the Museo del Titere, a fascinating collection of puppets that reflects Cádiz’s ongoing passion for this unique art form.
Cádiz’s vibrancy doesn’t stop with food and history—it’s also a center for flamenco. The rhythm of flamenco runs through the veins of the city, inspired by local composer Manuel de Falla. I find myself at Taberna Flamenco La Cava, where an intimate performance sweeps me into a kaleidoscope of music and movement.
Getting There and Where to Stay
Cádiz is easily accessible via Seville, just an hour by car or train, with year-round flights available on EasyJet starting from £50 return. Alternatively, Ryanair offers seasonal flights to Jerez, just 45 minutes away, from £75 return.
For a stay steeped in history, Hotel Argantonio, a charming 18th-century Moorish building in the Old Town, offers spacious rooms from £45 per night. Kirker Holidays offers a three-night package from £628 per person, including flights, transfers, and hotel stays, providing a seamless experience for those eager to discover this hidden gem.
Cádiz, with its combination of ancient charm, modern amenities, and festive atmosphere, is an exceptional winter destination for history enthusiasts and those looking to immerse themselves in Spain’s rich cultural tapestry.
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